Hawaii is one of the most beautiful and unique places on the planet. The beaches, mountains and landscapes are stunning. The people and culture are full of aloha spirit. The history is fascinating, though turbulent. The food is incredible. There are so many reasons Hawaii is one of my favorite places in the world, but probably number one on my list is how Hawaii was one of the first places I felt a sense of belonging. As a half Japanese, half white girl, when I lived in the mainland U.S. or in Japan, I always felt a bit “other.” Not quite Japanese. Not quite American. I often got asked, “What are you?” What I read between the lines was: What is your racial mix because you don’t fit into any of the standard checkboxes and that confuses the hell out of me? I loved coming from two distinct cultures, but I hated feeling like I didn’t belong anywhere. Hawaii’s melting pot meant that a lot of other people looked like me. I was delighted to discover there was even a name for people like me: hapa. So mahalo, Hawaii, for giving me a sense of belonging.
Hawaii’s aloha spirit is unlike anything in the world. The literal meaning of aloha is “the breath of life” or “the presence of breath.” What aloha is really about is a way of living and treating each other with love and respect. It’s sending and receiving positive energy. It’s a vibration; it’s living in harmony. When you step off the plane, you can feel it all around you, welcoming you with open arms.
If you’re heading to the Aloha state, there’s so much to see, do, and experience that it’s hard to narrow it down to a list of must-do and must-see activities and places. Every island is unique, each with so much to offer. I constantly get asked where I recommend going, what I recommend doing. The truth is, no matter where you go or what you do, you really can’t go wrong.
People ask me all the time what island I recommend visiting. That’s such a tough question, because each island is distinct and has its own unique experiences to offer. So I’m just covering Oahu in this blog, because that’s where I lived and that’s where our family visits every time we go back to Hawaii. I also really love Maui and make the island hop over to Maui every time we’re in Hawaii. I’ll be sure to cover Maui in another blog.
Oahu was home to me for a number of years, so I always go to Oahu when I go back to Hawaii. Oahu is “the gathering place.” It’s the third largest Hawaiian island, and it’s home to about two-thirds of the entire population of the state – roughly one million people – so it’s crowded. Oahu is home of the state capitol of Honolulu, so there’s plenty to see and do. Here are the top twelve things you just can’t miss:
- Pearl Harbor and the USS Arizona Memorial. This is the final resting place of 1,102 of the 1,177 sailors and Marines killed on the USS Arizona during the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The Arizona rests where she fell, submerged in Pearl Harbor. The visceral emotion of that historic event hits you when you’re standing there, the service men entombed in the ship beneath your feet. Entrance is free, but you will need a ticket. There’s limited capacity on the boats that take you out to the memorial. You’ll start with a short film, then take a quick boat ride out to the memorial. You can go to the visitor center for walk-in tickets on the day of your visit, but you’ll need to go right when they open at 7:00am because tickets are first come, first serve. Only 1,300 free tickets are given out daily. Your entire party must be present to get walk-in tickets. Only same-day tickets will be handed out. Alternatively, you can reserve tickets at recreation.gov.
USS Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor
USS Arizona Memorial
Oil still surfaces from the USS Arizona below, where her men are entombed
USS Arizona Memorial Casualty List
- Waikiki. You can’t come to Oahu and not experience Waikiki. Waikiki Beach is world famous. Spend at least one day soaking up the sun on Waikiki beach. Longboard or take surf lessons. See the Duke Kahanamoku statue. Enjoy a lively meal at Duke’s Canoe Club, barefoot on the sands of Waikiki. Take a stroll down Kalakaua Avenue. Catch free hula shows on Kuhio Beach. Shop at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. Catch free fireworks on Fridays at the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Have drinks and pupus at RumFire Waikiki in the Sheraton Waikiki for oceanfront views of Diamond Head. Visit the iconic Royal Hawaiian Hotel, also known as the “Pink Palace,” which was built in 1927 and radiates an aura of its lavish past as the beach retreat of real Hawaiian monarchs and Hollywood royalty. While you’re there, have a cocktail at the Mai Tai bar.
Waikiki
- Hike Diamond Head. Diamond Head is a volcanic crater, and a defining feature of the Waikiki skyline. The hike isn’t bad – it will take you about forty-five minutes. It’s less than a mile, but it’s steep. It’s rewarding though – you’ll get sweeping, gorgeous 360-degree views of Oahu at the 760-foot summit. The trail was built in 1908 by the US Army because it was an ideal location for coastal defense and you’ll see the military history as you hike towards the summit – batteries, bunkers, and observation decks. The views are absolutely breath-taking.
The view from Diamond Head Crater Trail
Another view from our Diamond Head Hike
- Kualoa Ranch. Kualoa Ranch is a 4000-acre private nature reserve, working cattle ranch and one-stop adventure playground. It offers a TON of fun things to do. You can take a movie sites tour. Known as Hollywood’s backlot, Kualoa Ranch the iconic background for Hollywood movies and TV shows like Jurassic World, Hawaii Five-O, Lost, 50 First Dates, and even Elvis classics. You can zipline through the “Jurassic Valley.” Or go horseback riding on the Ko’olau mountains and experience some of the most gorgeous scenery: the Ko’olau Mountains and sweeping views of the Pacific. Kualoa Ranch has electric mountain bikes, ATV and UTV adventure tours, kayak tours, foodie farm-to-table tours. The opportunities are endless. See for yourself at kualoa.com.
Kualoa Ranch – where they were filming Jurassic World
- Iolani Palace. Iolani Palace in downtown Honolulu was the home to the royalty of the Kingdom of Hawaii up until the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, when it became the prison to the overthrown Queen Liliuokalani. It’s a registered National Historic Landmark and is the only royal palace on U.S. soil. Iolani Palace tells the story of Hawaii’s controversial history from the overthrow of the monarchy, annexation by the British, then the U.S. through to Hawaii’s statehood in 1969. Learn more at iolanipalace.org.
Iolani Palace
- Oahu’s North Shore. If you visit in the winter, be sure to catch the world-famous big wave surfing on the North Shore. Swells can reach thirty feet and is pretty spectacular to see. No matter what time of year you visit, a drive to the North Shore is worth it. Stop at the famous North Shore beaches like Sunset, Pipeline, and Waimea Bay. If you go in the summer, be sure to jump off the rocks at Waimea Bay! See the sea turtles at Laniakea Beach. Stop in at Turtle Bay Resort, where Forgetting Sarah Marshall was filmed. Have lunch, coffee or shave ice in Haleiwa town. The famed Matsumoto’s Shave Ice is in Haleiwa. Island Vintage Coffee has some of the best coffee I’ve ever had. The food trucks – and especially the shrimp trucks – are worth a visit. We love to stop for fresh sushi at Banzai Sushi Bar. It’s just tradition now.
- Pali Lookout. One of my favorite views on the island is the Pali Lookout. Not only is it a breathtaking lookout point with jaw-dropping views of Oahu’s windward side, it’s also a place of historical Hawaiian significance and known to be haunted. About five miles from downtown Honolulu, on the Pali Highway between Honolulu and Kailua, is the Nuuanu Pali Lookout. To get there, take H-1 to the Pali Highway and follow the Pali up the mountain. You’ll see a turn off for the Nuuanu Pali Lookout on the right side of the road. I used to drive this road every single day when I went to UH in Honolulu and lived in Kailua. I used to speed through it at night, too, because it was so dark and spooky! The lookout is about 1200 feet above sea level with 3000-foot cliffs (pali), that tower above. It’s incredibly windy because the tradewinds flow right through the area. This is the site of one of the bloodiest battles in Hawaiian history, the Battle of Nuuanu in 1795. King Kamehameha I’s warriors forced Maui chief Kalanikupule’s men to their deaths off the Pali’s steep cliffs. They were defeated by Kamehameha, and he united all of the islands into the kingdom of Hawaii. An estimated 400 warriors died in the battle and their ghosts are said to haunt the Pali at night. But they aren’t the only ones known to haunt the Pali. It’s a well-known Hawaiian legend that you’re not supposed to carry pork over the Pali. Legend has it that the demigod Kamapua’a, who was half pig, half man, lives on the windward side of the island and his former lover, Pele, the volcano goddess, lives on the leeward side. They had a tumultuous relationship and the two agreed not to see each other. Taking pork over the Pali would break that agreement, and it’s said Pele will always stop it from happening. Cars stall or stop and will only restart when the pork is thrown out of the car. When you head to the Pali lookout, make sure you don’t have pork in the car!
Pali Lookout
It’s so windy at the Pali Lookout
The Battle of Nu’uanu, painting by local artist Herb Kane (1928)
- Lanikai Beach. Lanikai Beach in Kailua is my favorite Oahu beach and home to my favorite Oahu hikes, Lanikai pillboxes. It might even be my favorite beach in the world. Lanikai translates to “heavenly ocean” and it’s a fitting name. Lanikai is much quieter than Waikiki or Hanauma Bay and it’s a great spot to kayak or stand-up paddle board. The water is always perfect and you’ll love the views of Mokulua Islands from the beach or from the pillboxes. Get to Kailua before the sunrise, and do the quick hike to the pillboxes to watch the sunrise. It’s simply gorgeous.
Lanikai
- Take a ghost tour. Hawaii’s history is so rich with legend and mystery, that a ghost tour in Hawaii is a truly unique experience. The Hawaiian Islands are known for supernatural phenomenon and a ghost tour allows you to take part in traditional Hawaiian storytelling and maybe even witness the supernatural. Stories of the fearsome night marchers, or the elusive Menehune will give you what the locals call chicken skin. You’ll visit sacred burial grounds and other sacred places where sacrifices were made to the ancient gods. Hawaiian ghost tours are so different from tours on the mainland because Hawaiians have a deep tradition and unique way of dealing with the supernatural, so you might witness ancient chants or ceremonies.
- Hawaiian Parasail. We went parasailing with Hawaiian Parasail at Ala Moana Beach and it was such an incredible experience. It’s a completely different perspective of Honolulu way up in the sky. Views are gorgeous, and it’s so quiet and peaceful at that altitude. The guys at Hawaiian Parasail make it a lot of fun, too. (hawaiianparasail.com)
Paul, Tai and I parasailing with Hawaiian Parasail
Billie, Ed and Jei parasailing. The guys at Hawaiian Parasail were a blast. They screamed “shark!” when they dipped us in the water and took these pictures from the boat. Who would have thought that one year later, Jei was actually bit by a shark.
- Swim with Wild Dolphins. If you want really want an unforgettable experience, you must go to Waianae Boat Harbor and swim with wild spinner dolphins with Dolphin Excursions. You’ll board a boat that will take you off the Waianae coast and drop you quietly in the water with wild spinner dolphins, where you can passively (and quietly!) observe these amazing beings playing in their natural habitat. (dolphinexcursions.com)
Dolphin Excursions
Swimming with wild dolphins!
Dolphins in the wild at Waianae Harbor
My wild one, Jei, diving in fearlessly to swim with dolphins
- Circle the island. One of our favorite things to do for a day on Oahu is drive around the island in a full circle. If you’re starting in Waikiki, head east towards Diamond Head and then onto Kahala – you’re going to drive counter clockwise around the island so when the road is on the shoreline, you’ll be driving right there along the shore. Here are some places to stop on your circle island tour:
- In Kahala, stop at Kahala Resort. This is a beautiful resort, and I love how quiet the beach is here. Stop for a swim, see the dolphins at Dolphin Quest or just have a stroll on the beach. Then continue on your circle island tour continuing east on Kalanianaole Highway through Aina Haina and Hawaii Kai.
Full moon rising at Kahala Beach
- Check out Maunalua Bay and Koko Head in Hawaii Kai. Then continue on to Hanauma Bay.
- Stop for a quick snorkel at Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. Then continue northeast towards Sandy Beach and Makapu’u. The views on the coastline in this area are phenomenal. I think this is one of the most scenic spots on Oahu. Last time we were in Hawaii in 2017, they were filming Jurassic World in this area. Just before Sandy Beach, stop at Halona Blowhole. The blowhole was created thousands of years ago when molten lava tubes were formed from volcanic eruptions. As the waves crash ashore, you can see water shoot thirty feet into the air from the lava tube.
Hanauma Bay
- If you have some time, you can stop for a short two-mile hike to Makapu’u Point Lighthouse. You’ll get gorgeous views of Rabbit Island and Molokai. Then continue through west through Waimanalo and onto Kailua. When you hit Kailua Road, head towards the ocean (makai).
Tai and Jei with Rabbit Island in the background
- Kailua is definitely worth a stop. I lived in Kailua for many years. Both Kailua and Lanikai beach are among my favorites. There are loads of restaurants in Kailua, or stop for shave ice at Island Snow, where they make the syrups from locally grown fruit.
- Continue west to Kaneohe and stop at the Byodo-In Temple on Kahekili Highway. The jaw-dropping views of the Ko’olau mountains are so lush and green, it almost looks painted on the sky. This is a beautiful temple and the scenery is just spectacular. Feed the carp, say a prayer or just take in the views.
Byodo-In Temple
- Follow Kahekili Highway north until it hits the Kamehameha Highway in Kahalu’u, then continue north following the coastline. You’ll pass through the small towns of Waiahole and Waikane, then you’ll come upon Kualoa Ranch. You can stop and play at Kualoa Ranch now, but I’d recommend coming back for a full day at Kualoa. Just across the highway from Kualoa Ranch is Chinaman’s Hat. It’s a great stop for pictures.
Chinaman’s Hat
- Continue north on Kamehameha Highway through Ka’a’awa, Punalu’u and Hau’ula. The beach will be on your right, and gorgeous views of the Ko’olau range will be on your left. Just breathe it in.
Kualoa Range
- Just as you come into the town of La’ie, you’ll see the Polynesian Culture Center and the Mormon temple. The Polynesian Cultural Center is definitely worth of visit if you want to see a luau.
- Continue north to Kahuku and try the garlic shrimp at the shrimp trucks. Then head on to Turtle Bay Resort. Turtle Bay is worth a quick stop.
- After Turtle Bay, you’re in the famed North Shore area. You’ll Sunset Beach, Ehukai Beach, Banzai Pipeline, Waimea Bay and then Haleiwa. All are worth stopping and taking in.
- By the time you hit Haleiwa, it’s been a long day and you can take Kamehameha Highway south through Wahiawa and Mililani towards Pearl City to get you on route back to Honolulu. If you’ve got one last stop in left in you, or any room in your tummy, stop at Dole Plantation for a Dole Whip!
